Basement Slab

RESIDENTIAL RADON CONTROL

 

Radon Control Services:


Radon in your building:
Soil is porous and is in a constant state of flux as air and water move through it. Air in the soil that contain radon gas is drawn into a home or classroom by negative low indoor air pressure. The contaminated air is drawn into the building through cracks in the slab or foundation joints, French drains, sump opens, porous building materials, or simply molecular activity. We have found many homes which had no cracks or openings but still had high levels of radon gas.

Real Estate:
Besides the serious health ramifications, there can also be problems in the resale of your building. Since more people are becoming educated and aware of the health risks of radon, a real estate property owner should also be aware that potential property buyers are requiring that the building be tested and mitigated before purchasing. If you are in a relocation situation where your company may purchase your home should they ask you to move, they will request a radon test. If your levels are above the 4pCi/l level they will require you to mitigate the property before closing.

Building:
If you're building a new home, require the builder to prepare the building per EPA requirements and install a radon mitigation system. This should cost between $750 and $1500 and is much less expensive at this time than later, since the cost can be built into the price of the home. An EPA approved Passive Piping System can be installed up to the attic with the understanding that you will test the home after you have taken possession. Should your test results indicate you have a problem you will then need to have the builder activate the system by installing an inline fan and continue the vent pipe out through the roof.
ALWAYS REQUEST A RE-TEST to verify the system is working properly. Many people neglect this step and assume the system is installed correctly only to find (usually after the builder's warranty has expired or they try to sell the home) that they have major modification expenses to get the system to operate correctly. Remember, most builders are in the business of building houses or commercial buildings and are not up on the latest radon mitigation techniques. They usually apply only what they may have heard at a quick course or have read in a pamphlet.
Radon Mitigation Methods:
Radon gas can be corrected in three ways: pull it out, push it out, or seal it out. Radon gas will continue to regenerate itself for thousands of years. Once radon enters a building, it decays in the air and continues to decay. Radon must be continuously removed by ventilation fans, pressurization or mixing with fresh air before the decay process can begin.

When indoor air pressure is lower than soil gas pressure, soil gas is sucked into the house This happens at its highest levels in the winter months when the building is tight and the heating is on causing warm air to rise and requiring the building to demand more air. Many methods of radon reduction or mitigation involve changing these air pressures naturally or mechanically. Other methods involve only sealing points of entry which may work with low levels of between 4 to 6 pCi/l. Anything over that will usually require some form of a mechanical system to continuously keep the amounts of radon at a safe level.

Natural methods of radon mitigation include opening windows, installing dampers to prevent low indoor air pressure caused by home or office appliances or heating units, sealing breaks and seams in slabs and covering exposed soil in basements and crawl spaces.

Fans are the primary mechanical means of reducing radon gas in a home today.